Todd G.

Cat-back, muffler swap or true dual? Here’s how to pick an exhaust for a GMT800 5.3 or 6.0 for the sound you want without the drone — and what power to realistically expect.

A GMT800 door that drops, clunks, or has to be lifted to latch has worn hinge pins and bushings. Here’s the cheap pin-and-bushing fix versus replacing the whole hinge.

A GMT800 brake line that pops on the pedal is a rust-belt classic and a safety issue. Here’s how to inspect them, replace them, and whether stainless or pre-bent lines are worth it.

Rusty cab corners and rockers are the GMT800’s worst body plague. Here’s the honest rundown of patch panels vs. bondo, weld-in vs. bolt-on, and how to do it so it lasts.

Weak or warm A/C on a GMT800 is usually a leak, a tired compressor, or a blend door — not just “needs a charge.” Here’s how to diagnose it before you dump in another can.

What oil and how much for your GMT800’s 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 or 8.1 Vortec — the capacities, the factory weight, and when a heavier oil actually makes sense.

A GMT800 pan-drop and filter service is the cheapest transmission insurance you can buy. Here’s the fluid, the capacity, the interval and the mistakes that kill a 4L60E early.

Brake lights stuck on, no brake lights, cruise that won’t set, or a shifter stuck in park on a GMT800 often trace to one cheap part — the brake light switch at the pedal.

A window that grinds, drops into the door, or moves crooked on a GMT800 is a failed regulator, not always the motor. Here’s how to tell them apart and what to buy.

Sweet smell, foggy glass and a wet passenger floor mean a leaking heater core on a GMT800. Here’s how to confirm it, and what the job actually involves before you tear the dash apart.